Maréchal Niel (Noisette) [Isabella Gray seedling] A classic variety, richly fragrant. A parent of 'Paul's Lemon Pillar', 'Souv. de Pierre Notting' and 'Diamond Jubilee'.

The Garden May 12, 1883 pp. 426-427
PLATE CCCLXXXVII.
ROSE MARECHAL NIEL.
    I REMEMBER the time when the beautiful, because truthful, picture which appears in this number of The Garden would have created a great perturbation among those who love the Rose. Some would have denounced it as an imposition, and, resenting it as an insult, would have protested indignantly—"preposterous, absurd, impossible!" Some of less irascible temperament would have sighed, "How cruel to mock us with a vision of loveliness which can never be realised." Others more sanguine might have hoped "it may be a veritable fact. We have heard of Cloth of Gold, and we have grown Solfaterre. Io triumphe. We have got a grand, hardy, yellow Rose at last, and we will have it if we pawn our boots."
    Well, I can assure the younger brethren who have been brought up to it, and have always grown it as a matter of course, that it did make a grand sensation when it first came to us in all its golden glory. Never since we first smelt Devoniensis or cut our first Charles Lefebvre (about the size of the five-guinea cup which it helped us to win) had we been so thrilled, jubilant, inebriate. And though well-nigh twenty years have passed since M. Pradel saw the first bloom of it among his seedlings (I wonder whether he cried or danced, for without some such relief to his excitement he must have lost his reason there and then, and I should not be surprised to hear that he is crying or dancing still), it ever reminds, with each returning spring, of our first love, and charms us with almost all its pristine power.
No Rose, I think, brings so much satisfaction to the eyes and noses of Her Majesty's subjects, contributes so largely to the decoration of boudoir, bouquet, and button-hole as this magnificent Marechal Niel. Wherever grown under glass, it is the first to cheer the ungenial days of March and April, and it is not only reliable and constant, never declining to open, like Dickens's fractious Periwinkle, always fulfilling in efflorescence the promise of its buds, but it is as ample and generous as it is sweet and fair. I have known several instances in which rosarians of limited means, or who resembled good Mrs. Gilpin in their economical habits, "for though on pleasure she was bent, she had a frugal mind,'' have paid the yearly amount of coal consumed in their greenhouse (cobbles, of course) with Roses cut from Marechal Niel.
    There must be glass to secure this early abundance, for this Marshal is no more frost-proof than were the marshals of Napoleon in that disastrous Russian campaign; and the Rose, on its own roots or budded so low on the Brier that it may make them in the soil surrounding, should be planted out (not kept in pots) and trained up wall, pillar, or rafter; or it may be grown like the Vine from an outside border and brought into the house. However this may be, it should have an amplitude of fertile soil, and this should be continually enriched with manure, liquid and solid.
    At the same time, though the Marechal is not quite hardy, it may be successfully grown, with a little care, out of doors; and though I have once or twice been rebuked for my temerity, I have only failed for one season in producing its grand Roses on my walls. I believe the best plan to be this, to bring the upper growth from the walls and arrange it underneath, so that you may the more readily protect it from the frost. This may be done best with glazed frames, if you have them to spare, because they do not exclude the light, and are easily moved to and from the wall (in the latter position resting against stakes set some 2 feet from the wall), or, if these are not available, with garden mats. In April or May, according to the thermometer, the protective duties may be removed, and there may be free trade in wind and sunshine. The finest blooms I have ever seen have been grown upon walls having an eastward or southward aspect; and there is this further advantage for exhibitors, that they may with umbrageous ingenuities, or by cutting a few days before the show, be enabled to include in their collection a Rose which is not only so beautiful in itself, but which educes by contrast the beauty of those around it.
    When in its full vigour the Marechal only requires the removal of thin and weakly shoots, but if the plant appears to be deteriorating close and low pruning must be tried. This Rose is somewhat capricious, and liable to sudden and mysterious decay, so that it is best to have a young plant coming on and to keep up a sure succession.
    As to Roses generally, I have a good hope that, though much injury has been done, "there's life in the old dog (Rose) yet," and I see strong signs already of its recuperative power. Should we have the phenomenon of that genial May, which "never is, but always to be," we may have a happy Rose-tide after all. As with other weakly invalids, they will require good support in their convalescence; and as I am not a member of the Blue Ribbon brigade, I propose to administer a gentle stimulant.
    Of novelties, I only know that Merveille do Lyon promises to be a marvel and a lion also—a white lion, "larger, fuller than the Baroness, 4 inches in diameter." What can mortals wish for more? The raiser says that it is undoubtedly the finest Rose ever sent out; and who knows its qualities so well as he? " Do yer think," said one rustic to another, who was somewhat incredulous at a fair, "that the gentleman 'ud say as the giant wor ten foot high if he worn't ten foot high —spooney?" S. R. H.

American Rose Annual 1943
In my garden the Brownell and the Horvath productions, bred for resistance to winter cold in northern latitudes, so far, with the exception of Mabell Stearns, have displayed a susceptibility to severe, and often fatal, winter injury. In contrast, the hardiest, least winter-harmed bushes I have today are Old Blush, a China which is close to a Tea, and a nameless waif I acquired on our farm, where it had been brought by the tenant's wife who found it at a roadside filling station. Federation shows much more damage from this last winter than do three young Marechal Niel plants, not yet fully established. All this leads me to the none-too-profound suggestion that the qualities which make for hardiness in the long, severe northern winters, in which a rosebush can hibernate like a bear, may not facilitate survival in the open winters of the Upper South, particularly our western portion, punctuated with occasional periods of severe weather.—Maurice H. Merrill, Normal, OK

Gardening 5: 11 (September 15, 1896)
A few of our people grow Marechal Niel and Gloire de Dijon out of doors successfully; they are grown both as standards and bush plants, and when carefully laid down and buried in soil in the fall and not lifted in spring until all danger of frost is over they do very well and flower freely. We have planted out several varieties of tea roses and when they have been properly covered with soil in the fall we have always found them all right in the spring.—Thos. Manton, Toronto.

Popular Gardening August 1891
BUDDED ROSES. You are right that the man who doesn't know a Persian Yellow from a Gen. Jacqueminot does not deserve to have them, and you may be pretty sure such don't have them. I am an advocate of budding, and some of the finest Roses I have are budded. Marechal Niel in particular is far superior when budded on a strong stock for out-door culture, than on its own roots. In fact I have never seen it in perfection on its own roots out-doors; and then it is very difficult to keep over winter. Mine is budded three foot from the ground, the tree easily bent down and the top covered in winter. It has been for a few weeks past and still is giving us some of the noblest flowers the world can produce. To give a list of some of my varieties, will mention the Marechal Niel, Etoile de Lyon, Perle des Jardlns, Gen. Jacqueminot, American Beauty, Gen. Washington, Paul Neyron (this is a superb one, measuring four and five-eighths inches in diameter), Madame Clinot, Baron de Bonstetten, La Reine, Caroline de Sansall, Triumph of Luxenburg, Agrippina. Sanguiniana. Pink Daily, Vick's Caprice, etc. But I must not omit Morgan, a new Rose that some day will have a name in the land, and of which I have perhaps the only plant in existence. One of the most famous horticulturists in the land said that if it were pure white instead of a pale pink, he would give a thousand dollars for it. I omitted Meteor and Dinsmore, two more of the new ones.—Stephen Hoyt's Sons, New Canaan, Conn.

Canadian Horticulturist 18(7) (1895)

Hayward

Hayward

Maréchal Niel Perfume

Grafted to Devoniensis

American Gardening 14(9): 519 (1893)
Influence of Different Stocks on Marechal Niel Rose
JOHN DALLAS, Connecticut

Some years ago, in experimenting with different stocks in an endeavor to find the most suitable whereon to bud Marechal Niel, I was surprised at the different results attained, showing conclusively that the stock influences the color of the flowers. The stocks used were roses, America, Cloth of Gold¹, Lamarque and Ophier.² The stocks were planted at wide intervals in a span-roofed house, in two rows six feet apart, running north and south. All were budded at the same height, and trained horizontally on a wire trellis, forming an arbor 162 feet long by 6 feet wide. All made rapid growth and filled their allotted space. America is a buff or apricot-colored rose, and in many respects a good, serviceable running rose. An old Connecticut rose grower made the assertion that this rose stood in the same relation to the family of roses that America does to the family of nations. Although I am unable to endorse his sentiment regarding the rose, I can fully recommend it as an excellent stock for Marechal Niel. The union was so complete that years after it was impossible to tell where it bad been budded. The flowers of Marechal Niel were lighter in color on this stock than on Cloth of Gold, which, but for one fault, is much the best stock of those under consideration. This fault is the inability of the stock to keep pace in growth with the Marechal Niel, causing a protuberance at the point of union, and finally resulting in a cankerous disease. The flowers from this stock were a very deep yellow, remarkably so when placed beside those from the Lamarque stock. The Lamarque, besides producing very light-colored flowers, has the same fault as Cloth of Gold, and in a few years showed signs of canker where budded. Ophier is an old rose of a tan or copper color, short dumpy buds, but a fine cup shape when nearly open. We have in this rose the most convincing proof of the influence of the stock on the color of the flowers, and not only the color but also the form. The petals of the Marechal Niel were deeply tinted with copper color half their length, the base of the flower a deep yellow, and the form of the flower was almost identical with Ophier. All the stocks under consideration had the same soil, equal light advantages, but yet produced decidedly different shades of yellow, and each retained these characteristics until they were destroyed.

Journal of Horticulture and Cottage Gardener 20: 469 (June 5, 1890)
Maréchal Niel Rose
J. B. JONES

THERE has been so much said and by so many respecting the cultivation of this ever lovely Rose that I scarcely know where or how to begin. A few remarks, however, may not be out of place in reference to a house here. In the early part of 1884 we did away with one of our vineries (30 feet by 18 feet), and in January, 1885, we planted five Maréchal Niels and one Fortune's Yellow; the former were budded on Briars, the buds being then in a dormant state. That season each bud produced 60 to 80 feet of wood, the result being we cut nearly 700 blooms from them. After they had finished flowering I cut them back to one eye. So well did this system act I have aver since adopted this plan, with such marked results that I shall ever continue it. We have this year cut over 2000 blooms. They are trained and tied to wire 14 inches from the glass; the annual shoots make from 20 to 25 feet, and 3 or 4 inches apart; the size of wood vary from 1 to 2 inches in circumference. One and all who grow this Rose are over afraid of the appearance of the canker that so often fatally destroys the best of plants. Most growers are aware also that it is the overflow of sap that is the cause of the ever regretful disease. Prevention is better than cure. Now, nine times out of ten this Rose is pruned when full of sap, and consequently the buds where pruned back to are unable to receive the amount of sap that is flowing; the result is the sap has nowhere to go; the earth cannot again receive it, therefore it must have vent somewhere. Subsequently we find the bark in various places splitting from it, and there is the canker brought about by our own hands. It is a fatal mistake to treat them thus in my opinion.

The Roses here never receive any water after we commence cutting, which lasts about a month. At the expiration of this period they are cut back to one eye as above stated. By this time the sap in a thorough declining stage, syringing is immediately commenced in order to prepare the eyes (cut back to) to receive the sap as it gently flows. In ten or twelve days watering is commenced, with clear tepid water, and not too much of it until the small shoots appear, when a most liberal supply must be given. This is often continued. If the plants break weakly we give liquid manure, or, what is better, a good sprinkling of native guano forked in the border. If fairly good growths are made, no more liquid or native guano is applied until just before the flower buds appear. A good supply is then given with excellent results, and a sure prevention of the canker. I am of opinion that if this method be strictly carried out there will be no necessity for cutting and scoring the trees described by some writers—at least that is my experience of our sixteen years' standing with this Rose. As to air-giving, we seldom give bottom air unless very hot, and in winter none at all only on bright days, then just for one or two hours' duration. Fumigating is occasionally done, after which we syringe with a half-pint of paraffin to four gallons of softsoap water, hence they are kept clean, and always have a healthy appearance. I send you a photograph. Although a bad one, it shows last year's growths. If any advantage, I will send one of the house when the Roses are cut down, which then undergoes a thorough cleansing.

Kindly return photograph. If any of the above remarks are of any use to you they can be utilised as you may think fit.—J. B. JONES, The Grange, Ellesmere, Salop.

[We have seen the Roses, which are much better than the photograph, and Mr. Jones is to be congratulated on his excellent work.]

The Gardeners’ Monthly and Horticulturist, p. 360 (December 1882)
THE MARECHAL NIEL ROSE
WM. CAPSTICK, BAY VIEW, MASS.

I wish to say a few words on the cultivation of the Marechal Niel Rose "under glass," and thinking that to enter into all the minute details would take up too much space in your valuable paper, I will confine myself to a few of the most important parts.

To succeed with the Marechal Niel I prefer plants budded on the Banksia or Solfatarre, as they tend to check too rampant growth for the first two or three years, and induce more freedom to bloom by producing wood that ripens well. Also, the budded plant will grow and bloom for years, where, on the other hand, plants on their own roots make a strong watery growth, which it is almost impossible to ripen, (unless the wood of the Niel is thoroughly ripe we get but few flowers), and after a few years the plant begins to decay, and is gone before we have had a full crop of bloom from it. We must always bear in mind that the Niel wants age before it will flower freely.

Another thing we must consider—the Niel must either be grown in a house devoted to its requirements, or in pots or tubs.

I prefer the latter mode. Take good thrifty plants about March 1st. Pot them into six inch pots, give moderate heat and moisture, say 55° by night, 70° by day, shift into larger pots as they require it; in this way keep them growing until the first or middle of September. Then place outside, first plunging the pots into the ground up to the rim; tie the top up to a trellis or let it rest on some old brushwood, or some kind of support, so that the air will have a free circulation all around the shoots. Never allow the plants to get dry so as to wilt. But be careful not to water so as to induce growth.

The plants may remain in this position until after the first sharp frost, or until about the 20th or last of October. Then take up the plants, loosen the soil on the top of the pots with a hand fork or pointed stick, to the depth of two or three inches, remove the soil and replace with a top dressing, one half loam and one‑half rotten manure. Prune away all useless wood, place in a greenhouse, which keep at a temperature of 45° to 50° by night, 65° to 70° by day, for about a fortnight, then gradually raise the temperature to 55° by night, 75° to 85° by day, the latter temperature with bright sun. I do not like a night temperature of more than 55°, as I find it spoils the color and size of the buds.