Journal of Horticulture and Cottage Gardener 20: 469 (June 5, 1890)
MARÉCHAL NIEL ROSE
J. B. JONES

THERE has been so much said and by so many respecting the cultivation of this ever lovely Rose that I scarcely know where or how to begin. A few remarks, however, may not be out of place in reference to a house here. In the early part of 1884 we did away with one of our vineries (30 feet by 18 feet), and in January, 1885, we planted five Maréchal Niels and one Fortune's Yellow; the former were budded on Briars, the buds being then in a dormant state. That season each bud produced 60 to 80 feet of wood, the result being we cut nearly 700 blooms from them. After they had finished flowering I cut them back to one eye. So well did this system act I have aver since adopted this plan, with such marked results that I shall ever continue it. We have this year cut over 2000 blooms. They are trained and tied to wire 14 inches from the glass; the annual shoots make from 20 to 25 feet, and 3 or 4 inches apart; the size of wood vary from 1 to 2 inches in circumference. One and all who grow this Rose an over afraid of the appearance of the canker that so often fatally destroys the best of plants. Most growers are aware also that it is the overflow of sap that is the cause of the ever regretful disease. Prevention is better than cure. Now, nine times out of ten this Rose is pruned when full of sap, and consequently the buds where pruned back to are unable to receive the amount of sap that is flowing; the result is the sap bat nowhere to go; the earth cannot again receive it, therefore it must have vent somewhere. Subsequently we find the bark in various places splitting from it, and there is the canker brought about by our own hands. It is a fatal mistake to treat them thus in my opinion.

The Roses here never receive any water after we commence cutting, which lasts about a month. At the expiration of this period they are cut back to one eye as above stated. By this time the sap in a thorough declining stage, syringing is immediately commenced in order to prepare the eyes (cut back to) to receive the sap as it gently flows. In ten or twelve days watering is commenced, with clear tepid water, and not too much of it until the small shoots appear, when a most liberal supply must be given. This is often continued. If the plants break weakly we give liquid manure, or, what is better, a good sprinkling of native guano forked in the border. If fairly good growths are made, no more liquid or native guano is applied until just before the flower buds appear. A good supply is then given with excellent results, and a sure prevention of the canker. I am of opinion that if this method be strictly carried out there will be no necessity for cutting and scoring the trees described by some writers—at least that is my experience of our sixteen years' standing with this Rose. As to air-giving, we seldom give bottom air unless very hot, and in winter none at all only on bright days, then just for one or two hours' duration. Fumigating is occasionally done, after which we syringe with a half-pint of paraffin to four gallons of softsoap water, hence they are kept clean, and always have a healthy appearance. I send you a photograph. Although a bad one, it shows last year's growths. If any advantage, I will send one of the house when the Roses are cut down, which then undergoes a thorough cleansing.

Kindly return photograph. If any of the above remarks are of any use to you they can be utilised as you may think fit.—J. B. JONES, The Grange, Ellesmere, Salop.

[We have seen the Roses, which are much better than the photograph, and Mr. Jones is to be congratulated on his excellent work.]